The Wonder Land of the Ocean – Matsu

With its different dialect, its different architecture and its different landform, Matsu is clearly a very different place. The Chinese call it the “Peach Blossom Land” of the Ocean; i.e. the Wonder Land in Chinese. When you wander through the peaceful, pristine village with its granite houses and deep blue sky and ocean, you'll feel as if you were in the Mediterranean.

Bull Horn Village Photo by Kang Hou Hsiao	Bull Horn Village	Jinsha Village

The Matsu Islands are completely different from Taiwan. It is a military base and so is rather isolated from other people. But what makes it so unique is its Eastern Fukienese Culture. The architecture of their "square stamp" houses on the hills is especially eye-catching. The thick granite houses keep people warm in the winter and cool in the summer. The roof tiles allow for good house ventilation, hence the name "Breathing House".

Photo by Lung Te Chou-Lee	Fire-shaped walls to stop the spread of fire / Courtesy of Tourism Bureau

Cinbi Village on Beigan has these types of houses. There you can sip coffee in front of a cafe above the sea, sunbathe on the fine sand beach, swim to nearby Turtle Island, or even stay in an old granite Bed and Breakfast.

Photo by Kang Hou Hsiao	Cinbi Village & Turtle Island

 

Bird's-eye view of Tangchi Village from Mt. Bi

	The village next to Cinbi is Ciaozai. It used to be the most populous village of Beigan. However now there are more gods in the temples than there are inhabitants because so many Matsurians have moved to Taiwan. But the Ciaozai Fishing Village Exhibition Hall remains to remind us of its prosperous past. On display are all kinds of fishing tools and models that explain how life used to be there. This is also the place where psych-war propaganda balloons were released towards China during the period of tension along the Taiwan Strait.
Ciaozai Fishing Village
Ciaozai Fishing Village Exhibition Hall

Forts can be seen everywhere on the islands. It's hard to imagine soldiers living inside such damp tunnels. Fortunately, the political situation is not that tense today. The birds come back to breed on the islands without the interference of gunshots or human activity. The bird of myth, the Chinese Crested Tern (Thalasseus bernsteini), has been spotted here continuously since 2000. Other birds include the Greater Crested Tern, the Roseate Tern, and the Black-tailed Gull. These and other birds have made Matsu the international focus of tern conservation.

Stronghold 06	Ciaotou Islands	Photo by Chui Ching Yeh

 

Peace Memorial Park	Peace Memorial Park	Luo & Bang Islands

Many of the forts are now under the care of the Matsu National Scenic Area Administration - and some of them have already been opened to the public. These include Stronghold 6, Peace Memorial Park at Beigan, Iron Fort and the Dahan Post at Nangan. Beihai Tunnel in Nangan is also a place you shouldn't miss. The soldiers dug it by hand in order to move military supplies safely. It is large enough to allow many boats to park inside at the same time. It takes about a half-hour to go back and forth through its walkway. Just make sure you visit at low tide. Although today there are fewer soldiers in Matsu than there used to be, they still number more than non-military inhabitants.

Iron Fort	Dahan Post	Beihai Tunnel / Photo by Shih Jung Hsu

Matsu's Folklore Culture Museum provides lots of information about their dwellings, their customs, and the role they played in the coastal defense of Taiwan. You can also see their opera, hear their music, listen to their poetry and even learn their language. In the hall is a sampan which is still seaworthy.

The Fisheries Research Institute is also an interesting place worthy of your visit. You will discover many strange fish, shells and other living creatures of the sea. Maybe you can recognize the skeleton of the sea animal hanging in the hall.

Matsu Folklore Culture Museum

 

From Fuao Harbor you can take a ferry to Beigan and other islands	Always on the alert

Did somebody mention food? Besides the wonderful seafood, fish noodles and fish balls, don't miss the Matsu bagel! It is very chewy and often served with fried eggs, green onion and oysters stuffed inside. The Matsu Distillery offers a free taste of the liquors they produce. Tunnel 88 has changed from its military role to liquor storage. It's now a famous brand that is popular in Taiwan.

Fish noodles/Tourism Bureau	Large yellow croaker/Chih Sheng Wu	Tunnel 88

 

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